[Keep the Show on the Road!]

DennyG and I connected today at Hood River, Oregon on the Historic Columbia River Highway for the 21 mile run to The Dalles, down the famed Rowena Loops. He no doubt will tell the story, so I am just going post a couple of 3D photos in crossed eyed format that I took along the way.

This is the first time I have met Denny in person, and he is every bit as fine a fellow as he comes across on the forum and in his articles in American Road. It was a privilege to break a little bread and roll a little rubber on the road with him.

Keep the Show on the Road

Dave



Denny and his faithful Nikon, overlooking the Columbia River




The Dry Creek Bridge, built in 1920. A classic



Looking down the Rowena Grade




Looking down to the Columbia River and Freeway from the Rowena Overlook, old road below.




1920 Seifert Viaduct just east of The Dalles. Interesting contrast!

[hutchman]

I like the 3D shots, but my eyes may never be the same!

[Chris Rowland]

He no doubt will tell the story, so I am just going post a couple of 3D photos in crossed eyed format that I took along the way.

Very nice stereo pairs! Do you have a stereo camera? I have a Kodak Stereo camera from the 1950s but haven't used it for a couple of years. You know what a pain it is to deal with film... I wish I had something digital...

Chris

[Keep the Show on the Road!]

Hutch,

You probably didn’t cross your eyes as a kid! When you read, your eyes converge, and crossing them goes further, so it can be uncomfortable of your eye muscles are not used to it.

I would put up red/green or red/blue sets but you have to have the right glasses to view them (like the old 3D comics and movies). At least with cross stereo pairs, if you can’t cross your eyes, or don’t want to, you can still see the images clearly.


Chris,

I had a Stereo Realist but sold it a few years ago.

Believe it or not, I usually just take two separate shots with my camera, and I use free 3D software that adjusts for minor skewing. However these shots were taken with two cheap digitals (you don’t need or want many pixels, and zoom is useless) mounted on a flash bar. I press the shutter releases simultaneously, or as close to simultaneously as possible. A subject like Denny won’t move fast enough (unless he blinked) to produce a problem. But if you look at the white car on the Rowena loop, it moved in the tiny interval.

I figured with all you guys who have photographic skills superior to mine, I better use some novelty to get my share of air time!

Oh, I should add that while Denny and I were at the overlook of the Rowena Loops, a young “grip” for a film crew working there, asked about the dual cameras. I explained their purpose, and he was impressed. Since my camera gear seldom gets any attention, I think I will start using the “stereo twin kodaks” more!

Keep the Show on the Road!

Dave

[mobilene]

heh... used to have a Stereo Realist, too, but seeing as I don't see in 3D anyway, I never bothered to run film through it.

[DennyG]

A subject like Denny won’t move fast enough...

Yeah but some of this young guys could cause you problems.

...a young “grip” for a film crew working...was impressed.

I believe one of his comments was "Wow! That's just crazy."

[Chris Rowland]

I had a Stereo Realist but sold it a few years ago.

My Dad has a Realist and a Nimslo, and he also has an awesome vintage stereo slide projector with the nice polarized lenses.

What 3D software do you use?

Chris

[Keep the Show on the Road!]

My Dad has a Realist and a Nimslo, and he also has an awesome vintage stereo slide projector with the nice polarized lenses.

What 3D software do you use?

Chris

Chris,

To answer more than you asked…..because there are many less familiar with 3D than you….

I bought two used Kodak Easy Share c340’s. I bought a flat flash bracket on EBay. I mounted the two cameras side by side with tripod type thumb screws so I could adjust the distance between them. The whole lash up cost me less than $100.

Practically any small inexpensive cameras will do. There is no use for lots pf pixels because you are not making mural sized prints anyway. A zoom lens is basically useless because you can’t easily synchronize zoom levels (although you might mess with differences in post processing…who wants the hassle?)

I trigger the cameras at the same time, using the sophisticated, “push-down-on the shutter releases simultaneously” method. If I think I may have pushed one slightly later than the other, I use the “take another photo” method. I can almost hear the groans of 3D pros…but they spent $2000 for their digital cameras.

At home I download the left and right memory cards to left and right folders. Then I fire up the free (donations accepted) ANABUILDER software. It does what expensive 3D programs don’t, and more. You can produce 3D in every typically used format, and some not so typical. It takes a little experience to get familiar with the many adjustments and controls available, but the evidence that anyone can do it is found in my posts. The documentation is limited, but the software is “awesome.”

The following site (not where I got mine) has a slightly later version than I am using.

http://www.softpedia...naBuilder.shtml

Oh, I forgot. You don’t need two cameras. Use one. Take a photo, then move the camera in the same planes, to the right or left about 3 to 6 inches, and take a second picture. Bingo, you have a stereo pair you can process in ANABUILDER. The drawback is movement (e.g. a flag flying in the breeze) between takes will distort that part of the final image.

More “sage” advice on request!

Have fun!

Keep the Show on the Road

Dave